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How To Lower Argyle 318
by rlee560
Posted: Jan 29, 2008
How to lower Argyle 318 to 70mm.
1. Remove topcap from compression(left) side of fork. Require 24mm socket.
2. Back the screw on the bottom of the same leg out 3 or 4 turns. Wack the screw with a Rubber mallet to unseat the shaft assembly. Then remove the screw the rest of the way. You will need a clean cup to catch the oil that drains out. Save the oil you will have to put it back in later.
3. Tip fork over upside down. The spring assembly will slide out. This is what it looks like.
4. You will need 30 mm of spacers. The ones I use are 10mm each. They can be purchased at any hardware store for less than a dollar. They are in the same isle as the nuts and bolts.
5. Remove the spacer on the top of spring assembly. Put in safe place in case you decide to change it back. Slide the 30mm of spacers on the bottom of shaft. I put them in between the negative spring and shaft hat.
6. Slide assembly back into fork. Replace screw in bottom of leg. Pour oil back in the fork. I used a nylon washer to cushion the spring topcap contact area.
7. Replace top cap. Done. Fork is now set at 70mm.
2. Back the screw on the bottom of the same leg out 3 or 4 turns. Wack the screw with a Rubber mallet to unseat the shaft assembly. Then remove the screw the rest of the way. You will need a clean cup to catch the oil that drains out. Save the oil you will have to put it back in later.
3. Tip fork over upside down. The spring assembly will slide out. This is what it looks like.
4. You will need 30 mm of spacers. The ones I use are 10mm each. They can be purchased at any hardware store for less than a dollar. They are in the same isle as the nuts and bolts.
5. Remove the spacer on the top of spring assembly. Put in safe place in case you decide to change it back. Slide the 30mm of spacers on the bottom of shaft. I put them in between the negative spring and shaft hat.
6. Slide assembly back into fork. Replace screw in bottom of leg. Pour oil back in the fork. I used a nylon washer to cushion the spring topcap contact area.
7. Replace top cap. Done. Fork is now set at 70mm.
43 Comments
- + 6
abrahamsson
(Feb 26, 2008 at 1:54)
thx , you the man! 
i did this to my argyles when i had them. i set it to 80 but put the softer yellow spring in so it felt a bit more consistent and not to firm. nice instructions tho dude.
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doesn't matter, just steel is going to be heavyer and could be louder than plastc because of metal-on-metal.
you said to take off cap on left side, is that the blue thing on the 318 becasue on the pictures its on the other side, i have the 302 and there both the same??
take out the spring assembly on the left side, where theres the little bolt sticking out the bottom, not the side with the rebound on the bottom
You just hace to insert some spacers under the negative spring, it'll look similiar in every fork, got some 'hooks' on the dumpers body, where U need to mount those spacers, It'll lower the fork and the travel as well. Don't remove the original spacers from another places, it could cause the effect that we could have seen in the pre 'tire clearance upgrade' manitous - bottomed out fork makes the tire hit the crown... In every brand our mod would look various, in manitous U don't have neither to remove the caps nor to pour the oil out, you just have to take the lower stanchions off.
no it will only work for an argyle 302 or 318 but its very simalar to doing a 409 other forks such as mz are harder as you need to take apart the whole for but its the same principle as the more spacers/higher the spacers the lower the fork will be
I'm not familiar with the domain but they should be similar. You will have to take it apart and see. No big deal.
Were would I pour the oil back in?
Once you have tightened the bolt on the bottom of the fork do you just pour it in the top?
Or a certain area?
Once you have tightened the bolt on the bottom of the fork do you just pour it in the top?
Or a certain area?
i just did my 302s used the spacer that was inside they seem really low now an lot stiffer too bitch to fget the top cap backk on because theres loads of tension
oh right, yeah i tryed to do that just the minute ago but when i tryed to put it back in the same order as the pictures ^, i couldnt get the little allen key screw to bite to the internal thread near the bottom of my fork !
so i gave up and put them back to normal
so i gave up and put them back to normal
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do the spacers have to be the exact same size as what you put it one so it doesnt rattle. My spacer is a little bit bigger than the spot where you put it so it makes that weird sound. It that fine or do I need to get a smaller one??
i just used this it was actually pretty easy i just put the spacer on the top, on the bottom instead of spacers and worked the same only it was hard fitting the top cap back on..... here is a trick i used tho ... when you put the cap back on pull on your fork bridge up as hard as you can and wedge some thing in the open space (i used a block of wood wrapped in a rag ) and then it pulls up the crown so all you have to do is screw the cap on easily .. anyways thanks
these instuctions are great
just follow exacly what they say
i lowwerd mine to 60 mm
top caps bit hard to put on
but worth it thank you very much for these instructions
just follow exacly what they say
i lowwerd mine to 60 mm
top caps bit hard to put on
but worth it thank you very much for these instructions
yes, I found the bottom out to be a lot easier to hit with the 80mm, the fork was a lot more plush. I converted it back to 100 due to this.
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